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Last days of journey

4/20/2013

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Began long journey home today.  Had a memorable surf out front at 4-Bobs while the rest of the crew were searching for waves in the canoes.  Last 3 guys in water were myself, Mike and Rich.  Had a 30 minute window where we traded wave for wave.  Four hour boat ride across Mentawai straight was smooth and uneventful.  Now doing an overnight stay in Jakarta.  Next travel leg begins to
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April 18th, 2013 Mentawai Dugout

4/18/2013

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Authentic Mentawai Night

4/18/2013

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Mentawai Shamen came over to entertain last night with traditional tribal dance and ceremonial eating of  live palm grubs.  Didn't taste better second time around.  The Mentawai people are so friendly and happy.  I hope they can maintain their culture with so many travelers coming to their islands.  Boys brought a really large sea snake over from adjacent island.  It was dead, so they curled it in the beer cooler.  Scared the hell out of Stuart when he reached in for a beer. Don't want to get bit by the live ones - fatally toxic venom.

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Thursday

4/17/2013

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Hard to believe only 2.5 days left before we leave the island.  Surfing just starting to feel like I'm hitting the improvement stage. Great news for today was that a South African surfer who fell overboard during the Mentawai crossing in rough seas yesterday was found alive after more than 24 hours in the water.  Really a miracle that they found him...and great rescue seamanship.  Weather has improved today, but surf still really small.  Taking one last lay day to let my MCL knee injury recover.  Swell supposed to build tomorrow and Saturday, so will tape and go if it gets good.  Explored the island a bit this morning.  Here's the Mentawai version of our Florida Kingfisher..

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Lazy Wednesday

4/17/2013

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Really lazy Wednesday.  Rain, wind, no waves all day. Took a page out of old Wado's playbook and lounged around all day.  Did R.I.C.E. all day on knee. Heading to dinner now and a couple Bintang beers

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Last couple days...

4/16/2013

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Had double sessions of surf since the day at Rifles.  Most memorable were two morning sessions at Last Resort.  Super long right hand walls that deposit you on the reef.  If you don't get straight out you are in for a long paddle.  Tweaked my left knee trying to pig dog a right hand barrel.  Hyper-extension severe enough to keep me out of water for next couple days.  No worries.  Surf small and weather rainy today.  Good day to chill. Felt small earthquake last night.  Looked at NOAA and there were 5 recorded earthquakes in region over past 24 hours.
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Photos from Rifles Session on Friday

4/14/2013

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Sunday April 14, 2013

4/14/2013

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Almost impossible to imagine a better surf trip.  Doing double sessions every day here in Kandui.  Have had 18 surf sessions since we arrived in Bali in last two weeks  Lot's of variety, but very few lefts...in Bali - Nyang Nyang and Nusa Dua.  In the Mentawais - 4-Bobs, Karangamajet Left, Rifles, BurgerWorld ,  Beng Beng, A-Frame and Nipussi.  Tonight's sunset .was special. Crew has been outstanding. Six days left on island before we begin trek home.  Surf supposed to bump up mid week with big swell coming right at end of our stay.

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Back on-line...for the moment

4/12/2013

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April 13 at 7:30 am here at Kandui.  Surf has been unreal.  Two sessions a day for first 3 days.  Still waiting to see some of the photos from yesterday's Rifles session.  Surf smaller today, but we will be surfing somewhere.  Looks like we will get a mid-week bump and another larger swell predicted for last couple of days 
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Last Bali Surf

4/8/2013

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Went out at Nusa Dua at low tide around 4pm.  Surfed till almost dark.  Boats weren't running because of the low tide, so we did the reef dance out.  Top of the reef had about a foot or less water on it. Swell never fully developed today and it was a bit inconsistent.  Sets were running 5 ft with take-offs that were overhead.  Both Mike and Curt caught a couple of fast, glassy and lined up rights.  I caught 2 mid-sized waves, but never was in position for one of the set waves. It's great to be surfing with 2 friends who are both charging and have more surf skills than I do.  Just what I need for motivation as I work through the post injury jitters  and transition from weak Florida beach breaks to powerful Indo reef breaks.  We had a great dinner at Curt's house tonight and got to spend a little time with his two beautiful kids. Ani , his wife, was out so we were sad we didn't get a chance to say goodbye and thank her for letting us tie up Curt all week.  Curt is a good friend and a perfect surf host.  He put us on great waves everyday we surfed.  We leave for the Mentawais tomorrow.  Both Mike and I agree that this was a very special week in Bali.  We couldn't have asked for more.
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Duane E. De Freese, Ph.D.
Florida


Marine Biologist
Surfer
Conservationist
Contact: [email protected]


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Michael T. Ryan, CFP, Ph.D. 
Rhode Island


Certified Financial Planner
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Father
World Traveler
Zydeco aficionado 

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