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TimeĀ 

4/29/2015

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Time passes quickly when you are living in paradise. SCST IV is now in the history books. 11 days of surfing every day in one of the world's most beautiful places. This trip had good waves that at times began to fringe on great, depending on your session and wave selection. For me, my surfing was marginal. It would require another lifetime to get my backhand where I want it.  However. it's always challenging and fun to strive for better technique - even later in my surfing life. But for me the trip was highlighted by the magic of Kandui Resort. If Hilton's Shangri-La was a mythical earthly paradise, then Kandui must be it's ocean twin. Great waves, close friends (old and new), magnificent Mentawai aloha and life-long memories that get richer every trip. Thank you Ray, Mario, Justis and the entire Kandui Resort team - you are the human touch that makes this place, its people and its waves a memory of a lifetime. Of special significance this year was watching Father and Son (Mike and Chris Ryan) take in the Kandui Resort paradise as a shared experience.  They both ripped. Chris earned his wings as a Senior Citizen Surf Tour apprentice. I would travel with him anywhere (even if he didn't eat the grub worm).  Sitting now at LAX waiting for the red-eye back to Florida puts the gift that is the Mentawai Islands and Kandui Resort into proper perspective. Already thinking about next trip back to Shangri-La...and a better backhand.

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A Beautiful Culture at Risk?

4/26/2015

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The Mentawai people are so happy, kind, generous and friendly. I hope this rich culture survives the impacts of our tourism and our western influences? 

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Mentawai Culture

4/26/2015

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Night before last full surf day at Kandui has local elders from tribe swing by to dance, smoke a few cigs, and offer guests grub worms ( thumb siz) . Mike manned up this year. Chris took a pass. The marine biologist (me) ate two. Once you get over the wiggle, it's not too bad until you hit the crunchy mouth parts.

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Kandui Boatmen

4/26/2015

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Andy and Lidi...The boatmen who get us there and back in one piece. These guys are pros. Kandui Resort does it best.

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Bankvaults

4/25/2015

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History Repeats

4/25/2015

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Two years ago, Mike and I were surfing Rifles and Mike caught one of the waves of the day. Yesterday was a repeat of both - Rifles and Mike on a bomb. Surfed Rifles and 4-Bobs yesterday. A bit smaller today, but going to be another surf marathon with only 2 days left on island. But moment of the day yesterday was watching our new friend, Anthony, almost get caught inside on a swing set at 

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Surf Sacrifice at Sand Island

4/24/2015

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Swell be slow to develop, so we followed a long standing tradition for a bon fire in advance of a swell. Lots of beer. Lots of fun. Let's see if tomorrow produces. Some fore runners showing at 4 Bobs tonight.

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Friday...Swell Not Yet Here

4/23/2015

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Surfed small Nipussi with a bunch of Brazilians this morning. Swell not showing yet. Some photos from boat ride out. Boatman Andy has nicknamed Mike "too much money". Too funny. Love Andy's smile an

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Better Than Work

4/23/2015

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The saying "it beats work" is a something we hear in the lineup a lot.  A more appropriate saying for surfing the Mentawais is "it beats everything"!  This is one of the Umas where we live. I have Uma #1 alone. Definitely living the dream in the Mentawais. 

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Kid Rips

4/23/2015

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Small waves with clouds and rain past 2 days, so here's a photo of Chris Ryan at 4-Bobs from a couple nights ago. Swell should start to show tomorrow.

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Duane E. De Freese, Ph.D.
Florida


Marine Biologist
Surfer
Conservationist
Contact: [email protected]


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Michael T. Ryan, CFP, Ph.D. 
Rhode Island


Certified Financial Planner
Surfer
Father
World Traveler
Zydeco aficionado 

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