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Sunday April 14, 2013

4/14/2013

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Almost impossible to imagine a better surf trip.  Doing double sessions every day here in Kandui.  Have had 18 surf sessions since we arrived in Bali in last two weeks  Lot's of variety, but very few lefts...in Bali - Nyang Nyang and Nusa Dua.  In the Mentawais - 4-Bobs, Karangamajet Left, Rifles, BurgerWorld ,  Beng Beng, A-Frame and Nipussi.  Tonight's sunset .was special. Crew has been outstanding. Six days left on island before we begin trek home.  Surf supposed to bump up mid week with big swell coming right at end of our stay.

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Back on-line...for the moment

4/12/2013

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April 13 at 7:30 am here at Kandui.  Surf has been unreal.  Two sessions a day for first 3 days.  Still waiting to see some of the photos from yesterday's Rifles session.  Surf smaller today, but we will be surfing somewhere.  Looks like we will get a mid-week bump and another larger swell predicted for last couple of days 
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Last Bali Surf

4/8/2013

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Went out at Nusa Dua at low tide around 4pm.  Surfed till almost dark.  Boats weren't running because of the low tide, so we did the reef dance out.  Top of the reef had about a foot or less water on it. Swell never fully developed today and it was a bit inconsistent.  Sets were running 5 ft with take-offs that were overhead.  Both Mike and Curt caught a couple of fast, glassy and lined up rights.  I caught 2 mid-sized waves, but never was in position for one of the set waves. It's great to be surfing with 2 friends who are both charging and have more surf skills than I do.  Just what I need for motivation as I work through the post injury jitters  and transition from weak Florida beach breaks to powerful Indo reef breaks.  We had a great dinner at Curt's house tonight and got to spend a little time with his two beautiful kids. Ani , his wife, was out so we were sad we didn't get a chance to say goodbye and thank her for letting us tie up Curt all week.  Curt is a good friend and a perfect surf host.  He put us on great waves everyday we surfed.  We leave for the Mentawais tomorrow.  Both Mike and I agree that this was a very special week in Bali.  We couldn't have asked for more.
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Bali Surf Day 5

4/7/2013

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Kicking back this Monday morning waiting for swell to arrive.  Coffee/breakfast/stretching/yoga.  Mike's strumming the guitar right now and I'm taking a break from packing for tomorrow's journey to Jakarta, Padang and the  Mentawais.  Surf should be good later today at Nusa Dua as  a large swell fills in.  Had a successful art expedition inland yesterday to Ubud and Mas.  Many shops closed due to Balinese celebration.  Last gallery stop turned out to be a winner.  Siadja Gallery was originally founded in 1955 under the name Rodja Gallery, a pioneer in "Fine Arts" in the village of Mas. Amazing stuff.  I fell in love with a 6ft  hibiscus wood  carving of a Balinese women.  Asking price was $8,000 US.  Probably could have got it for around $4,000 after bartering...but how to get it home in one piece was another issue.  Although I have been known to do "hormonal art purchases" when Vicki was alive, the whole deal was  out of my price range, so I settled for a cold Bintang when we got back to the house...and a fine-art memory  On the other hand, Mike scored a very intricate hand-carved Balinese sandalwood mask. Picture attached isn't the actual mask Mike bought, but it shows the fine detail of the craftsmanship at the gallery.

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Lay Day

4/6/2013

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Mike and I are taking a lay day from surf after 5 straight days of head to overhead surf like this.  Honestly, we don't need or want it any bigger at our age.

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Epicurean Delight in Bali

4/6/2013

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Just had a home-cooked meal from one of our house staff, Alphea.  Fried prawns, rice, stir-fired veggies, chicken. Second best meal in Bali to date after  a home-cooked lunch at Curt's house the other day.  If surf is down tomorrow, we may head to Ubud,  the art and cultural center of Bali. Mike is looking to add to his mask collection.
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Sea Lice

4/5/2013

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5am Saturday morning. Spent a long sleepless night itching from sea lice stings.  Nusa Dua has had patches the last couple days. If the swell is still holding we will do an early morning surf today.  It's a holiday in Bali, so we may take a driver and go up to Ubud, the art and culture center of Bali.
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Bali Surf Day 3

4/4/2013

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Another day of great waves at Nusa Dua.  Locals calling it 3-4 feet.  Set waves were overhead.  Got hammered on a couple, but got a few good ones as well. Mike took off on a set wave as I watched from inside and down the line - it was a visual memory I won't soon forget.  He was over a football field away when he kicked out.  Last wave of the morning sectioned on the end section andI had to straighten out.  Whitewater pushed me into 6" of water and onto the inside reef.  Had to carefully float over so I didn't get cut up or snap fins off.  So much fun.  Just had lunch at a local waring. Back at the villa and time for siesta.  More swell on tap for next three days.
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When 12 inches does not equal 12 inches

4/4/2013

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Surfers are used to the multiple standards for wave height declarations, but non-surfers are often confused. OK I'm confused too.  Surf today at Nusa Dua was overhead on the sets.  In FL we would have called it  easy 4-6 ft.  According to Magic Seaweed surf report today the swell was 2.5 ft.  So when the long-term forecast starts calling for  surf to build to 4-5 feet on Sunday-Monday, Mike and I start thinking...maybe we are too old for this.  Mike charged Nusa today and caught some sick ones.
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Paradise vs.  Population Pressures

4/4/2013

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Local access to the beach at Nusa Dua is now  squeezed by a modern and extremely large hotel complex.  But remnants of authentic Bali still persist.  Photo of local basket weavers with man softening ties with his mouth. Population growth pressures related to  community planning  & development, water quantity & quality, and waste management will ultimately define the economic future and quality-of-life for the people of the  Bukit Peninsula and their tourist visitors. Community leaders must understand that protecting Bali's natural resources assets, managing waste and protecting water quality are the foundation for sustaining economic prosperity.
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Duane E. De Freese, Ph.D.
Florida


Marine Biologist
Surfer
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Michael T. Ryan, CFP, Ph.D. 
Rhode Island


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